The Mola
The Mola
BEYOND CULTURE, AN ART FORM
The ‘Kuna’ or ‘Guna’ indigenous communities, located between Panama and Colombia, developed the ‘Kuna’ technique. More commonly referred to as ‘molas’, these fabrics are reverse appliqués of cut-out fabrics layered and hand-sewn into intricate designs. Normally worn by women for representation and protection, these designs manifest the guidance of the Guna Dule gods; it is a trace of their cultural heritage that can be seen, appreciated, and respected. The Kuna people count around 60,000 members across 49 communities in Panama and Colombia, all living in a matrilineal kinship.
Mola means ‘shirt’ or ‘clothing’. According to regional tradition, girls start confectioning molas once they reach puberty, some, even before. The complete traditional outfit consists of a dulemor, shirt with Kuna appliqués on the front and back; a saburet, patterned wrapped skirt; a musue, red and yellow headscarf; a wini, arm, and leg beads; an olasu, gold nose ring; and earrings. When Pasqual de Andagoya, Spanish conqueror and governor of San Juan, arrived in Darian, he wrote: “the women are very well dressed, in embroidered cotton mantles which extend down to cover their feet, but the arms and bosom are uncovered.” The concept of body coverage was brought by the missionaries that arrived in the area; with this cultural intersection, shirts were included in the traditional outfit. Molas represent tradition and culture for the Kuna community, women that do not wear them are uncommon. Especially after the 20th century, when the Panamanian government tried to “westernize” the community by forbidding their customs, language, and traditional outfit. Outraged, they started a revolution in 1925. After dense battles and a large wave of resistance, the government yielded. Kuna communities now govern their territories autonomously.
The creation of Molas originated in the tradition of Guna women. Before the arrival of Spanish missionaries in Panama and Colombia, the Guna women used to paint geometric designs over their skin. However, due to the fact that they had to cover their bodies, they translated the designs and wove them over the fabric using the reverse appliqué technique, where several different colored fabric layers, from two to seven, are stacked and sewn together. The design comes to life as the artisans cut through the fabrics. After completion, it is turned under and sewn, making the stitches almost invisible. Some molas have cutouts implemented to add an extra variation of color or to colorize a specific part of the pattern.
The number of layers and colors, type of stitchings, intricated zigzag borders, embroidery, design complexity, latticework implementation, and overall evenness, determine the quality of the mola. Due to their great amount of dedication and craftsmanship, they are sturdy and can be safely washed several times. This makes their creation flexible, being able to be made into pillowcases, garments, wall hangings, or carpets.
Among the Mola Textiles, there are two main designs: Naga and Goaniggadi.
Naga
Naga embodies protective geometric designs that represent natural elements, and that have a grounding connection between culture and nature.
Goaniggadi
Goaniggadi is a figurative mola. It mirrors figurative daily life events to obfuscate enemies through its radiant colors and serves as a protective emblem and an example of cultural imagery represented through craftsmanship.
"Myth says that the technique and original designs were hidden in the Galus, sacred places that exist in other layers of the universe. The Neles, their spiritual leaders, tried several times to bring back the knowledge and images of the technique through their dreams, but a beautiful woman, known as the goddess of the scissors, never allowed them to enter. It wasn’t until Nagegiryai, the first Nele woman, that the secrets were revealed to the community. Nagegiryai first experienced flashes of changing designs, then discovered paintings on trees and bodies of young women, and finally, on her last trip, she was taught the art of writing or creating mola textiles.”
EXPLORE ITEMS WITH KUNA TEXTILES
The Colombian Design Brand Mola Sasa works closely with the Guna Dule communities in an interdisciplanary design process making bags, pillows and other fashion accessories from the colorful textiles.
Animalia Clutch Large
Regular price 320.00 EUR Sale price 180.00 EUR
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By Colombian fashion brand Mola Sasa.
Crafted by the Kuna Women in Colombia, the designs combine traditional geometric patterns with intricate hand-sewn appliqués of various native birds and plants.
This beautiful handmade clutch pays tribute to Colombia’s biodiversity, second in the world with its unique natural wealth. Includes a removable shoulder strap made of tan matte leather, a small inner pocket, and a large fold-over flap.
Size: width 29.2 cm, height 19 cm, depth 5 cm.
Vereda Kuna Bangle
Regular price 135.00 EUR Sale price 99.00 EUR
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Only one left.
By Colombian fashion brand Mola Sasa.
Crafted by the Kuna Women in Colombia with an ancient appliqué technique where layers are superimposed, cut out, and hand-sewn to form intricate patterns. The new lighter, thinner, and open shape fits all wrists.
Vereda Clutch
Regular price 350.00 EUR
Tax included.
Shipping calculated at checkout.
By Colombian fashion brand Mola Sasa.
Crafted by the Kuna Women in Colombia, the designs combine traditional geometric patterns with intricate hand-sewn appliqués of various native birds and plants.
This beautiful handmade clutch pays tribute to Colombia’s biodiversity, second in the world with its unique natural wealth. Includes a removable shoulder strap made of tan matte leather, a small inner pocket, and a large fold-over flap.
Size: length 29 cm, width 5 cm, height 18.5 cm.
Vereda Box Clutch
Regular price 300.00 EUR
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Shipping calculated at checkout.
Only one left in stock.
By Colombian fashion brand Mola Sasa.
Crafted by the Kuna Women in Colombia, the designs combine traditional geometric patterns with intricate hand-sewn appliqués of various native birds and plants.
Based on Colombia’s unique and colorful topography, this season brings to life the walks and paths of the ancestral Guna Dule history in a variety of redefined accessories.
This minaudière is minimalist in shape but shows our iconic textiles in a beautiful way: each side is similar but different. It fits a large phone, a thin wallet, and lipstick. It is perfect for a glamorous night out and about.
Size: length 20.5 cm, width 5 cm, height: 5.1 cm.
Material: Cotton Poplin, Velvet, Recycled Cotton Canvas.
Vereda Bangle — Navy
Regular price 160.00 EUR
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By Colombian fashion design brand Mola Sasa.
The bangle is hand-sewn with an ancient appliqué technique by women artisans of the Colombian indigenous Kuna Community. The open shape has a gold-plated metallic tip that makes the bangle bold and sculptural. Wear yours solo or stack it with the broader version.
Materials: fabric, wood, suede, gold-plated brass.
Velvet Fall Bag
Regular price 280.00 EUR
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Shipping calculated at checkout.
Only one left in stock.
By Colombian fashion brand Mola Sasa.
Crafted by the indigenous Kuna women in Colombia, the designs combine traditional geometric patterns inspired by nature.
Sized to fit your essentials, it is secured by a fold-over flap that closes with hidden magnetic clasps and is finished with a wooden handle and leather strap. Wear yours as a crossbody or clutch or even around your waist and add the perfect amount of color and sophistication to your everyday look.
Size: height 18 cm, length 15 cm, width 5 cm.
Colors: dark green, rosé, aubergine.
Materials: cotton poplin, velvet canvas, wood handle, and leather strap.